Thursday, August 21, 2008

It is my last day in Beijing, and this will likely be my last post. I'm writing this from the USA House, which is a hospitality house set up in Beijing for US Olympic athletes, sponsors, and other guests. There are free drinks, burgers and dogs, and US Olympic athletes frequently come in for different events and photo ops. This is also the spot to get official USOC gear, which is all very neat. And yet, I can't say this is the coolest place I've eaten free food in the last two days. Yesterday, Doug Lennox was able to get me into the Olympic village! The best way to describe the village is like a college campus. There are blocks of 5-story apartments that house Beijing's 16,000 Olympians, but there is also a gargantuan dining hall, a fitness center, a store, and a myriad of other facilities. Running through the buildings there are streams and benches where athletes can relax and socialize. The coolest part about the Village is the sheer diversity of the place. I'd contest that even if it only exists a couple weeks every four years, the Olympic village is the most diverse place on earth. When else do you get a gathering of such excited, outgoing people from every corner of the world and pack them densely into an area the size of a few city blocks? The array of languages, facial expressions, outfits, and mannerisms that surround you there really make you realize how secluded we are in our respective walks of life.

I've continued seeing tons of Olympic events, even now that swimming is over. I've gone to see a few soccer games, including the women's semifinal match pitting USA against Japan and the men's semifinal where Argentina played Brazil. Both games were blowouts, with the USA and Argentina dominating their opponents. But the level of soccer and the players on the field (Ronadinho, Messi) were truly astounding. The Chinese fans are all very fond of the wave, which the announcers and scoreboard consistently prompt the crowd to perform.

Also, now that many athletes are done competing, the party has truly started. The night life here has been a lot of fun and it gets taken to another level when you realize that across the bar there's a world record holder or that out on the dance floor is a gold medalist. There are a few athletes I've been asked to get autographs from and as a spectator it's very hard to do so. Luckily, I've run into a few of them while they're out and was able to not only get an autograph and a picture but also talk to them about their sport, their training, their upbringing. What's best is that there are only a handful of athletes who really have to worry about getting swamped while they're out. The rest, however accomplished or famous they may be in their respective spheres, are approachable and friendly, happy to share a drink or maybe just a story.

Monday, August 18, 2008

These beleaguered vehicles dot the Olympic Green
China has won 39 gold medals at this Olympics. With an entire week of competition left, China has already won 3 more golds than USA did four years ago, when the Red, White, and Blue topped the medal standings in Athens. Sure, the AP and other news sources may be ranking by total medals, in which the USA maintains a slim lead, but there's no doubt that here in China only gold pays the bills. Every medal table shown publicly here in Beijing shows China solidly at the top. Chinese athletes are visibly disappointed when they fail to win gold, even if they've given the performance of their lives. There's an aura of pride here that is intoxicating. Last night as the USA played Japan in the women's semifinal soccer match the most flags in the stadium were the red ones with yellow stars. It does not matter who's playing, which event it is, whether it's a gold medal match or a qualifying round, Chinese fans show up to have a great time, share in their collective national glory, and show the rest of the world that in the 21st century, China is not settling for silver and bronze.


These posts also appear on the Prox, the Daily Princetonian's blog

Friday, August 15, 2008























These posts also appear online on The Prox, the Daily Princetonian's blog

aug 15. 2008

A week has passed since the Olympics started. I thought it was time I checked in and shared some general impressions as well as memorable moments.

Thus far, my experience at the Olympics has been spectacular. As of tonight I’ve seen five swimming events at the Water Cube, a couple of water polo games, the men’s gymnastics all-around final, a USA soccer match, and a track and field session at the Bird’s Nest. The events I’ve gone to have all been well attended, but are by no means sold-out. This is depressing. Especially when I personally know a few sets of parents in Beijing who have had trouble seeing their own children compete.
Beijing has done a spectacular job with their venues. Every one I’ve seen is clean, elegant, and mostly well designed. That said, there are significant problems with the Olympic Green itself and with how the Games are being administered. The Olympic Green is a 12 sq. km area in northern Beijing that is well developed but a bit sparse. Attending Olympic events one finds oneself doing more than a fair bit of walking. Only spectators with tickets to events held in venues on the green are allowed in, and even then only for the day that the spectator has a ticket for. This means that not a lot of people are found relaxing and enjoying the atmosphere of the Games. For sponsors, these rules have meant that the daily number of visitors to their booths and zones have fallen far short of anticipated figures. There is also no food court to be found on the Green. There are snack bars that sell the same limited array of food at every venue, as no food or drink can be taken inside. Last but not least, taxis are not let anywhere near the Green unless they are carrying a ticketed passenger. There are no organized taxi queues for those wishing to leave events. I had to walk around for close to an hour tonight in order to find a cab, and I drove by droves of people still searching for a cab.

Apart from these few complaints, the Olympics have seemingly run smoothly and successfully. China is a proud nation itching to show itself off to the rest of the world. At any event in any venue, you’ll find that when a Chinese athlete is competing, underdog or favorite, win or lose, the atmosphere intensifies tenfold. It is not simply the planning and preparation that has helped see China to a strong lead in gold medal count. Home field advantage is palpable here. Many visitors, myself included, find ourselves supporting the Chinese athletes as well. I watched a China vs. Italy water polo match the other day, and I can say that in general the feeling in the stands when a Chinese runs a best time or scores a goal or wins a heat borders on euphoric. Sometimes this atmosphere seems exclusionary, as when I heard a young boy remark to his father in Chinese, “Daddy, don’t watch this race! There are no Chinese in it!” But more often that not the locals are simply cheering on their heroes, and with grins and cheers are inviting us to do the same. After all, there is something to be said for a crowd that continues to cheer their team on passionately even after they fall behind 8-2.

I’ve watched some amazing swimming while I’m here. During the morning that the men’s and women’s 100 back, women’s 100 breast, men’s 200 free and other events were swum I had front row seats. The water cube is a jaw-dropping pool. From the deck the ceiling is translucent and one feels fast just walking into the place. Seeing track and field tonight, the Bird’s Nest gave me the same jitters. Both structures are truly iconic.

Well, I best be off as it is getting late. I have many more stories to tell and will be back with them soon.

Yi hou zai shuo!


These posts also appear online on The Prox, the Daily Princetonian's blog

Monday, August 11, 2008

And the Olympics are underway! Olympic fever has gripped the city. During the Opening Ceremonies, I was told 50% of the city's taxi force (the method of transportation most foreigners use to get around) was glued to their TV sets. Let's just say getting a cab that night was as easy as getting into TI on members night. I watched the Opening Ceremonies at a pub in the north of the city. While the TV was small and the speakers wimpy, during the Chinese national anthem our entire pub stood up, hushed anyone still chattering, and respectfully remained quiet throughout the entire song. The nationalism in the air here is pungent.

So far, I've had the good fortune of attending two of the swimming sessions. Traveling to the Olympic Green was relatively easy using the subway, and once I arrived, it didn't disappoint. The Bird's Nest is MUCH bigger than it appears in photos, it's positively massive. The Water Cube's bubble-inspired structure is also awe-inspiring, especially at night when neon lights and letters can be projected onto its transparent walls. The swimming has been quick. Much has been made of the fact that the swimming finals are being held in the morning. And while I'm sure NBC paid handsomely to "convince" the IOC that this was in the best interest of the Games, I'm not sure it was. While it doesn't seem like much has been sacrificed in terms of swimming performance (though this morning's women's 400 free final was considerably slower than last night's heats), the atmosphere of an evening final cannot be replicated in the morning. I had tickets to Sunday's (Aug. 10) finals in the morning where Michael Phelps smashed his old world record, but even though me and my hosts arrived more than half an hour early we got into the Cube 5 minutes late thanks to the ridiculous security measures taken here by the Chinese. As you walk through security, they ask you to use every piece of electronic equipment on your person. If you have a camera, take a picture, a phone, make a call. Multiply this by thousands and you have lines extending out the wazoo! A significant portion of that first final's spectators weren't in the stadium by the time the heats started

The Games have really seemed to gripped the city. Last night was the long-awaited USA vs. China basketball game, and again it seemed like many taxis had taken the night off. The entire staff of the restaurant I ate at last night had gotten together to watch the Games, postponing their work and eventual return home.

Yesterday, the Princeton community in Beijing got together to celebrate our Olympians. Swimmer Doug Lennox (representing Puerto Rico) made an appearance but we also celebrated the numerous other Princetonians competing here. Also of note, swimmer Bryan Tay class of 2012 swam the swim of a lifetime last night dropping 2 seconds in the 200m Freestyle. He was roughly 4 short seconds slower than a man you may have heard of: Michael Phelps! Luckily, I've managed to get ahold of tickets to see Doug swim his 200m Butterfly tonight at the Water Cube. In fact, I've got to get going, I'd hate to be getting frisked while Doug is in the water doing the Orange and Black (as well as the Red, White, and Blue) proud!

Yi hou zai shuo!

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